Tuesday 15 July 2008

In the Midst of Dizzying Travel: Engagement Party, Nija Style





I reckon that in the last month or so I have both lost several brain cells and fashioned new chambers in my mind for coping with a rolling course of geographical displacement -- or, more optimistically, honing the art of feeling at home in rapidly changing circumstances. Having returned to Hampton, Virginia in the wake of a visa fiasco and in anticipation of my younger brother's military commissioning / graduation / wedding (congrats! ... we in the Weaver family rarely live without adventure), I spent about two months making sweeping life decisions and planning the perfect small wedding (should homeland security grant me my scheduling wishes).

In June I returned to Nigeria for about one month that would be crammed full of final research goals and the orchestrating of an event that had been my father's idea: an engagement party to celebrate our relationship with Nigeria-based friends and family. Eze's logistics talents were put to the test as we worked on a tight budget to create a party for a target of 50 guests. In the end, in typical Nigerian fashion, about 100 turned up. But there was food and drink for all (just:), and the party was a great success.

It took place on June 21st, which was, incidentally, the Summer Solstice. This sun-worshipping Pagan holiday is not particularly meaningful on the African equator, and it was only due to the astronomical interests of Doc (our Sierra Leonian uncle by communal adoption, and the party's host) that we knew of the auspicious date at all. It meant that the sun set a wee bit later that night than usual (around 8pm), which made for a delightfully late-night (in Nija terms) affair. We and the last guests wrapped it up at around 10pm.

Highlights of the party included: our cute matching ankara (name for a dyeing style) outfits; the food! (wonderful moin-moin bean cakes made my Eze's mum and neighborhood friends, bountiful plates of chicken and jollof rice, freshly roasted suya and chicken barbecue); the spraying (being showered with money while getting down to Nija hip-hop) and the fact that I was a better dancer than Eze on the day -- which was probably due to his level of party planning exhaustion rather than my sense of rhythm -- but whatever the reason I enjoyed the kudos. Eze's parents looked splendid: Momsy in a special wrapper we bought her for the day (wrappers are a big deal in traditional Igbo culture, and the giving of one is a must for a new daughter-in-law), Popsy in his traditional regalia offering Igbo kola nuts and snacks of tiny raw garden eggs (eggplants) to the men at his Igbo-only table. I took the opportunity to present my new parents with a seascape painted by my mum, after which I called the States and both sets of parents had their first chance to chat on the phone. At party's end Eze's folks informed me, in a tone that was both playful and earnest, that henceforth I would belong to their family and become a visitor in my own home. Even before the wedding-to-be, I had become their Iyawo (wife). (Of course in Nigeria it's common to refer even to a casual coupling of boyfriend and gilfriend as 'husband' and 'wife').

Just a few days later and I was on a plane to England. Spent about two relaxing days with friends in Bournemouth on the southern coast. Having just bought a 100 year-old fixer-upper home with a magical wild garden, they were full steam ahead on the repairs and my visit helped to instigate a bit of resting for everyone. Then a bus ride up to Scotland and a week of alternately sifting through and dragging about stuff, and saying goodbye to a place I have for some time thought of as 'home.' I will certainly be back to visit Scotland as much as I can, but its homeland status in my heart has necessarily shifted. Better to live on two continents than three :)

And then... flying back to the U.S.A.

I have continued to come 'home' to visit in the 5 years since I graduated from Yale and travelled to England to study. But the feeling of returning to re-settle is decidedly different. A week in Glasgow had brought the Scottish inflection back into my accent, and I enjoyed the transient experience of striking up conversation with many friendly Americans who asked me questions and then wrapped up the exchange with the decidedly welcome and privately entertaining benediction: Hope you enjoy your stay in my country. Perhaps Eze's folks are prophets, for I do feel a visitor -- or perhaps immigrant -- status as I return to the land of my birth. On my flight out of Chicago and back to Virginia I count the number of years I have lived 'overseas' in my life. 12. Very nearly half my life 'away'. My Bournemouth-based buddy -- also born in the U.S. but now well nested in the UK, sent me a bon voyage email in which he wondered what 'America' would mean to me as I made the crossing 'back'. All these years I have called the place The States -- partly through a desire for precision, and partly out of respect for the Canadians and Latin Americans who also exist. But on this journey I say I am going to America. The word conjures all sorts of magic in my imagination. America is, despite everything, still a place that beckons one to bring her dreams, a place to make a new beginning, in my case a beginning with a man who will be an immigrant in a land I know as much from without (as either exile or ambassador) as from within. I feel as I walk the Norfolk exit ramp that I do wish, I do choose to be(come) 'American' and all the magical contradictions the identity signifies, but I also know that I have some power in determining -- in practicing -- what that will mean.

Monday 17 March 2008

a wee announcement (and finally updated blog!)



Kristina and Eze are getting married!

We first met seven years ago, and after reuniting this past autumn in Ibadan, Nigeria it wasn't long before we became the best of friends. We are enjoying a joyful, happy, fun connection -- and we've decided we'd like to keep it!

The folks we love are stretched across a geography Kristina has come to bemusedly term her bermuda triangular trade in carbon credits. This means we're not even going to attempt to throw a big party and ask (or oblige) everyone to come. We'll be making it official with a small family gathering over the summer. We'll also throw a party in Nigeria sometime over the next year and will keep you posted when we have the dates all figured out. That celebration will definitely be in keeping with the Nigerian tradition of 'anyone and everyone' is invited. So, if you've been waiting for that reason to visit West Africa..... In the meantime, and beyond, we'll do our best to stay in touch as we navigate our wee triangle. Whether we hear from you often or haven't been in touch in awhile, we feel blessed to know so many great people in far flung places and look forward to our paths crossing again.

* p.s. The snapshot is of our recent boat trip to Creek Town, an historic river-side community near Calabar in eastern Nigeria. The nice gentleman steering us along is a member of the town and did a great job showing us sights like the oldest tree. If you would like to and haven't done so yet you can read about K's and Eze's adventures in earlier entries on this blog. Also hope to tell a few more stories on it soon from the backlog of experiences K hasn't had a chance to write-up over the last busy wee while. FYI: K is unexpectedly back in Virginia for a few months of high speed internet connection and easy phone call opportunities, and she would love to take full advantage of them :)

Thursday 3 January 2008

Christmas in Ibadan



This Christmas was hectic (I slept through Boxing Day:)...but wonderful. I spent the day in a neighbourhood called Sha Sha. To get there you drive past U.I. and down a very beautiful road that cuts through land owned by the International Institute of Tropical Agriculture (IITA), Eze's former employer. I consider the road a lovely respite from the increasingly traffic-congested Ibadan, but most of the locals know it as a site of car-jacking and armed robbery. I have yet to see any evidence of that, though we do sometimes pass young men hanging out at massive potholes, pretending to repair the road and threatening to stop your car if you don't toss them 20 Naira notes out the window. At any rate, I always enjoy the pilgrimage to Sha Sha.

It is the neighbourhood where Eze's parents live, and this year they were very excited at being able to have most of the family home for Christmas. The picture shows all but two who were there to celebrate. Missing from it are Eze (cameraman) and Nonye (Eze's Lagosian big sister and mum of the strong, rambunctious toddler Tola and her baby sister Sola). Present in the picture are Mumsy and Popsy, Chime (younger brother currently working in the northern town of Mina), Agatha (Chime's lovely wife-to-be), Uche (older sister working as an environmentalist in eastern Nigeria), her husband Johnson and Chichi, the doctor-in-training-nephew who is the apple of everybody's eye.

Eze and I spent the day before Christmas hunting for gifts at the local Aleshinloye Market. It was a challenge to find something for everyone -- especially for me as I didn't know everyone yet -- but we managed it. I insisted that each gift had to be wrapped and stayed up late recycling scrounged bits of tape (which we had forgotten to buy) in order to make that happen. We woke up very early on Christmas morning in order to roast two chickens -- our surprise contribution to the day's festivities. We used a special recipe we have developed over a few attempts. Very much our own conconction -- roasted chicken stuffed and overflowing with sweet plantain and savory potatoes -- but it has been termed 'Virginia chicken' by a friend of ours who assumed I must have brought the recipe with me from across the ocean. Especially funny because, as I keep reminding everyone, 'I used to be a vegetarian.'

We didn't make it to Sha Sha until noon, which was a disappointment for the rest of the family until they caught sight of what we brought with us. Eze managed to capture a few photographs in the joyful chaos of chicken-gobbling and gift-unwrapping that ensued. We spent the rest of the day hanging out, watching dvd's on the family's new television set and, later, the young folks stole away for a bottle or two at a local bar. All in all it was a great day -- wonderful to be with a loving family for Christmas and magical to be able to share some of my own festive traditions...of course slightly tweaked for reasons of taste and logistics.

The next post will feature a German Shephard puppy and a late night church vigil, but that's another story...