settling into Ibadan

hello everyone! well, i'm sorry it's been a wee while since my last post. i have been distracted, and also busy simply being here. through an interesting series of fortunate events, i found myself adopted yet again by the auntie of my friend in abeokuta. i am staying in the fairly large home of a retired engineer and his very entrepreneurial, opinionated, and lovely wife. (known to me as daddy and mummy, or as auntie and uncle -- with which i feel a bit more comfortable). also living there are yemisi and tosin (17 years old), dayo (about the same age), and kudi (around my age). they are all incredibly kind and giving to me. they have affectionately termed me 'their oyinbo,' and cook lots of nigerian food for me, and are very patient teaching me to speak yoruba. due to retirement, the family is by no means affluent -- the house is definitely fading, but there is the sense that they were once doing very well for themselves, in terms of that measure of success. auntie is a community leader, and people are always dropping in to talk with her (or else she's visiting the neighbours). conversation is in yoruba-english, so i'm gradually picking up a lot and charming everyone with my practicing.

the biggest challenge is that the family is very very protective of me, and auntie is prone to lecturing me about all kinds of things -- from making sure to wear my wrist watch so i look like a 'lady,' to never drinking alcohol, to never talking to strangers. i think they've transformed me into some kind of bronzing marilyn monroe look-a-like -- i've had some dresses sewn that flaunt my outrageously big hips (or so the girls here say), and been gifted gold plate earrings. the dark sunglasses and now almost shoulder-length hair complete the look. ha!

the protectionism was really starting to get to me last week (apparently americans are ridiculously prone to wanting to do everything by themselves:), but then i just decided to smile, be grateful, and find my own ways to independence, bit by bit. i have a good friend living just a walk away, and he is a geography postgraduate student as well who has been helping me start my work at the university here. my research is kicking into gear, and as i learn my own way around i'm able to brush off all the protectionism, while at the same time appreciating all the hospitality. participant observation!

i intend to be blogging a lot more now, but in this one just wanted to give that bit of an update about my whereabouts.

love to all!